Top to toe by train
On a two-week journey by (mainly) rail, I travelled from Beijing to Hong Kong, experiencing the non-stop city lifestyle, touring ancient sights, and slowing down amongst rice terraces. En route, I discovered the diversity of China, from it’s chaos to its calm, connecting (as best I could) with those I met. Here are some of my favourite photos and memories from my journey in 2018.
Beijing
Landing in Beijing, I was expecting a city that would overwhelm. But far from it. Ancient palaces, timeless alleys, laid-back coffee shots and top-notch restaurants made this a fairly serene city break and the perfect first stop in China.
The Forbidden City
This vast palace complex has outlived twenty-four emperors and is now one of the largest museums and busiest tourist attractions in China.
Serenity at size
But even with its sheer scale and startling numbers, there were plenty of tranquil pockets to find while ambling around the complex.
Contemporary
Modern architecture, from shopping malls to TV studios, provides a fascinating juxtaposition with old – all easily explored by subway.
Cosy
Amongst the narrow hutongs – the cluster of small alleys and courtyards in the older part of the city – many small coffee shops and restaurants were practically just families’ front rooms.
Xi’an
Still being excavated, The Terracotta Warriors protect the final resting place of the first Emperor of China.
Walls and Warriors
The Great Wall of China was among the great wonders I was most excited to see. Sadly, the weather had other plans and it had retreated into cloud and mist.
Mosques
Xi’an has had a sizeable Muslim population for centuries, long since the days of the Silk Road. The city’s Great Mosque is a fascinating place of prayer, constructed of wood.
Bells & Drums
From the days of the Ming Dynasty and when bells rang to signal the start of the day, these two towers – the Drum (left) and Bell (below) are at the heart of Xi’an.
Suzhou
A city of canals and UNESCO-listed gardens, much of the action is anchored around Shantang Street. Tourist boats ply the waterways, bars and restaurants overflow, and street entertainers perform.
Master of the Nets
Although there are much grander gardens that make up the city’s famed collection, Master of the Nets Garden is one of the most important thanks to its creative use of space, bringing a tranquil lung to Suzhou.
Temples and time
Give yourself time to slow down in Suzhou. Flitting between paper prayer walls, temples and taking a boat ride along the canal.
Shanghai
One of my favourite things about Shanghai is how old and new are cheek by jowl. You can see a Monk strolling around a temple and then look higher towards a soaring tower block. It might be a cliche, but this is a city of contrasts.
Jing’an
One of the best examples can be found at Jing’an Temple, hemmed in by modern, almost brutal blocks around. Large electric billboards stand just meters away from giant buddhas, and the temple is hemmed by hawkers selling modern wares.
It’s a far cry from The Bund (below) and the futuristic Shanghai Skyline.
Longji
Continuing south, you’ll arrive at the Longji Rice Terraces. Dating back over 700 years in places, these lush pastures dotted with small wooden villages are a considerable change of pace to the cities left in your wake. The Backbone’s Rice Terraces is the most famous.
Ping’an
I stayed in one of the oldest villages surrounded by magical rice terrace views. The traditional wooden buildings, age-old recipes where rice is baked in bamboo, and the spirit of the Zhuang people made this one of my China highlights.
Yangshuo
Nearing the border with Hong Kong, the beautiful karst landscape of Yangshuo is a million shades of green. Hikes, boat rides and meeting farmers tending to their rice paddies and pastures was a fantastic change of pace.
Traditions vs tales
The Liu San Jie Impression Light Show is a magnificent display of performance on water, and an incredible way to end a visit to Yangshou.
Hong Kong
Crossing the border, I had a broad grin. Hong Kong is one of my favourite cities in the world. Being back amongst the skyscrapers, junk boats, and neon signs was a join, and I wrapped up my Beijing to Hong Kong journey with every street food I could squeeze in.