Amongst Millions
In 2019, I attended what is believed to have been the largest human gathering on earth, The Kumbh Mela in Prayagraj. Estimates put the number around the 45-million people mark for the days I attended. Mind-blowing. We walked about 20 kilometres around the festival and only saw a slight slither of it.
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Before setting off to such a mammoth event, I had some reservations, and one of them was about my camera equipment. I usually shoot with a Canon EOS 5D, which is not only expensive but also very bulky and with that many people around and with such a personal, focused event, I was worried a large DSLR wouldn’t always be ideal. However, Canon UK reached out and gifted me their new travel-focused camera, the Canon PowerShot SX740 HS.
The largest human gathering on earth
The numbers for the Kumbh Mela are staggering; across the 49 days the event in Prayagraj takes place, more than 100 million people attended, with over 40 million on the most auspicious days alone!
49 Days of Devotion
The 2019 Prayagraj Kumbh Mela ran between January 15 and March 4, bringing the total days of the festival to 49. Some pilgrims and holy leaders will stay for the whole event, while others will visit on certain days.
Plan and prepare
Given the sheer numbers involved in the Kumbh Mela, pre-planning is key to a visit. With roads and bridges closed on certain days and times, to be sure to attend the procession and key events, you must plan your stay in advance to minute detail.
The Kumbh Cycle
The Kumbh Mela happens every six years, while the full Kumbh occurs every 12 years. Every three years, a kind of Kumbh will take place, while the Mahakumbh takes place every 144 years. The Kumbh Mela is actually the half event, but the crowds to the 2019 half the last full Kumbh.
Four cities, three years
I’ve previously visited Haridwar, which is one of the Kumb locations. Alongside Haridwar and Prayagraj in Uttar Pradesh, Kumbhs also take place in Ujjain and Nashik. The Prayagraj Kumb is the oldest and, thus, most special of them all.
Tents, tents and more tents
Given the sheer volume of people attending, the municipality of Prayagraj, whose population is usually under two million, tent cities are erected everywhere. From luxury tent cities for tourists or those who bring their own tent, everywhere you look, you’ll see temporary accommodation. Surprisingly, WiFi is available throughout all the tent grounds!
The spirit of Sadhus
Sadhus are some of the holiest people in Hinduism, and for many, a chance to meet and be blessed by a Sadhu is a special moment at the Kumbh Mela. Naga Sadhus are the most auspicious of the Sadhus, and one of the key events is the procession on the most important bathing day left by the Sadhus before dawn. Sadhus have given up all their earthly possessions, including clothes, and thus are naked apart from their holy jewellry, accessories and their ash coating, which gives the white skin appearance.
A new name
If you haven’t heard of Prayagraj before, it may be because until late 2018, the city was known as Allahabad. The name was changed, and the first part means offering, a much more apt title for one of India’s most holy cities.
2000 years of celebration
The Prayagraj Kumbh Mela is the oldest of the four Kumb sites, and it dates back over 2000 years. A Chinese traveller recorded the first written details of the festival.
When planets align
The dates and timings of the Kumbh are no random pickings and are calculated based on the locations and combinations of the Moon, Sun and Jupiters zodiac positions, and these also define the critical bathing dates.
Unclear waters
The holy water of the Ganges is believed to wash away all your sins and leave you eternally blessed, which is why so many people bathe on important dates. The water and bathing will take you on the path of salvation, and many people will take bottles of the holy water home with them.
Two Rivers Meet
As the meeting point of three rivers, known as the Triveni Sangam. The Ganges and the Yamuna meet here, as you’ll see on the map, which a mythical third river called the Saraswati complete the trio. Where the two river meets, you can see the two colours of the water bodies collide.
Unrivaled numbers
Alongside the pilgrims who visit alone, there are land allocations given to many different religious and cultural groups and organisations to accommodate their guests. It’s believed that this Kumbh hosted more than 6000. But this number pales compared to infrastructure; more than 120,000 toilets and a detailed hygiene and sanitation plan were laid out at the 2019 Prayagraj Kumbh Mela. The event creates around 20,000 temporary jobs.
Costs and community
To host a celebration of this size, considerable investment is needed. Over £300 million to run the 49-day program, it’s an incredible amount of money for one cultural and spiritual event. Bringing your own supplies is essential for many of the pilgrims, especially those who have taken long journeys to attend. You will see at the festival free food, or heavily subsidised food, being handed out to holy persons such as the Sadhus and pilgrims.
Unesco-level Entertainment
Amusement parks, book exhibitions, yoga programs and laser shows are just some of the other attractions running alongside the more spiritual and holy events and activities. Such is the importance of the event; it’s on the UNESCO list of ‘Cultural Heritage’.
