The Lares Trek and Machu Picchu (Daily Breakdown + Video)
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Updated: 10th September 2017
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH LONELY PLANET + G ADVENTURES
‘Unreal… this is just unreal’, I try to utter to Rudy, our guide, as we reach a lofty 4550-metre peak on the Lares Trek. Scenic valleys, snow-capped mountains and turquoise lakes spanned out before me – I was more than a little in awe – and all of this was before even reaching Machu Picchu, the supposed show-stopper.
I couldn’t say the words, though. The altitude had left me literally and figuratively breathless.
One of the lesser-taken multi-day hiking trails around the Cusco region of Peru, The Lares Trek is an excellent alternative to the Inca Trail for those who want to avoid the crowds or haven’t planned their Peru trip months ahead. Organised folks will painfully hand over their dollar for the Inca Trail many months in advance, while those looking for a comfortable ride to the famed Incan citadel will simply hop on the train to Machu Picchu.
However, if you want a slice of adventure travel sprinkled with plenty of local culture and memorable moments, The Lares Trek is perfect. Here’s a daily rundown of my G Adventure’s Lares Trek to Machu Picchu tour, including some days for acclimatisation in Cusco first – but first, a few FAQs.
The Lares Trek video diary
Take a virtual tour of the Lares Trek, and let me tell you why this Peru hiking experience was one of my favourite travel memories to date.
A seven-day Lares Trek trip with G Adventures is priced from £749pp. This includes all accommodation (four nights in hotels and two nights camping), most main meals (allow US$170pp for meals not included), all transport once joining the tour, and a dedicated specialist Lares Trek chief experience officer throughout. Travellers will also experience three ‘G Adventures for Good’ projects on this tour. Prices do not include flights.
Day One: Acclimatise to Cusco
Cusco City, the capital of the Cusco region, is the starting point of any great adventure around this part of Peru.
At an altitude of nearly 3400 metres above sea level, it’s also a handy place to acclimatise to the fact it’s harder to breathe. With a climb of over 1400 metres ahead of you, time here is recommended even if you are on medication before your arrival.
The city centre itself is compact, charming and calming, even with traffic cops maniacally controlling the roads in all directions. The impressive grand architecture of the Plazas and the lively markets make for an ideal first day.
Later in the afternoon, you’ll have the chance to meet your new amigos, who will be your hiking buddies and see (or smell) you at your worst over the coming days. After a quick bite to eat and the obligatory awkwardness of trying, and hopefully not forgetting 14 people’s names over a Pisco Sour, it’s time for an early night.
Day Two: Locals, llamas and learning
A quick pit stop to look back over Cusco Valley will have you wondering how they can build houses just so high up the side of a mountain. Then it’s onwards to The Sacred Valley, the heart of the Inca Empire.
Being a sucker for meeting the locals and stumbling through a conversation, I was especially excited to visit the two G Adventures community projects.
The first, in a small hillside village away from the main tourist drag, provided a fascinating insight into how the brightly coloured ponchos and hats of Peru come to be. The different wool used here, sometimes Alpaca, sometimes a mix, are dyed using natural ingredients in boiling water. Plants, berries and leaves all contribute to the different palates that make the perfect Poncho.
Projects like these are so important in my opinion, taking the tourists to the locals as appose to making the locals come to the visitors allows for wealth to be spread a little bit better over developing countries.
The second project was a restaurant that G Adventures had built in the middle of nowhere. The food was outstanding, the team were friendly, and the wild boar that chased me into the calm river outside has now been forgiven.
Between The Sacred Valley, Cusco and Machu Picchu, you’ll find the centre of the Inca Empire. Which, around five hundred years ago, may well have been the biggest empire in the world.
The famous Inca Trail takes in more of the Inca ruins on the hike, but I appreciated the fact we had our slice of history here. Due to this, the trek was more focussed on the sheer beauty mother nature has dropped over this region by the bucket load.
The culture and history of the fifteenth century fascinated me as much as the modern-day life in the Andes. If you want to know more about local life and the Inca times, then check out my post ‘Prints of Peru‘ here.
The first archaeological site we visited was above the village of Pisac. Approaching the grand agricultural terraces climbing the mountain, with the ruins of a fortress perched at the top, you can’t help but wonder just how this construction occurred all those years ago.
Ollantaytambo village was my favourite. With small cobbled streets and tiny local bars branching off from the main square, it’s somewhere I could have happily whiled away a few days.
The well-preserved Inca ruins here are even more impressive, and although damaged by the Spanish, the views from the terrace looking back down on the village were undeniably ‘gram worthy. The towering mountains surrounding the site have cleverly crafted rock houses built into the cliff sides.
Seriously, I reckon these people were superheroes to construct this stuff.
Day Three: The Lares Trek
We kicked off the first day of The Lares Trek with a literal bang, which is how our merry crew came to be called ‘Team Crash’.
Our tour guide, Rudy, a complete pro who had more energy than a Duracell battery quickly dealt with the situation and had another bus on the way for us in no time at all allowing us to continue our journey happy, the guilty driver of the other vehicle waving us off apologetically.
This slight change of plans was kind of welcome as it gave us time to stock up at the local market. Most of us opt for the Coca leaf, chewed locally, to help deal with the altitude. I’ve since learnt it’s the base ingredient for the manufacturing of Cocaine and makes a mean ‘cuppa tea.
Day one of the trek is an easy start. Commencing in the town of Lares, it’s a nine-kilometre hike to the first campsite in Cuncani.
The first couple of kilometres is tame and slightly uninspiring, although the chance to meet locals on the way, have a broken chat over a Coca tea and get used to hiking at altitude were all appreciated.
After a lunch of hot soup and fresh fish in the colourful gardens of a local home, the trek picked up in both height and beauty. Clouds rolled into mountains; rivers broke the green ground, and children in red ponchos danced around in the distance.
The Quechua natives are the main indigenous group in the Andes and speak their mother tongue, so put your Spanish to one side and learn a few local words; your guide will be more than happy to help.
Both of the G Adventures campsites have cold showers, clean toilets and free movie entertainment in the form of the Milky Way. Porters and mules carry the camping equipment and your main bag ahead so you can arrive at camp ready to rest up and be amazed by the night sky. (Pack light to make life easier for your new four-legged friends; you can leave any extra stuff at the Cusco hotel).
If there were a ‘Camping Master Chef’ TV show, these guys would take gold. Three-course meals pumped out of the chef’s tent, fresh soups, and fish and egg dishes gave the energy for the hike. On the final day a freshly baked and iced cake somehow made it on to the table, I’m still yet to figure out how this magic trick occurred on a portable stove.
At each campsite, boiled water is provided to top up your bottles, and locals set up shops on blankets for any additional drinks. Passing trade is minimal around here, so spending a dollar or local Peruvian sol can make a significant impact, though make sure all plastic and trash go with you to protect the raw nature of the mountains. The money paid for this campsite by G Adventures gets split between the local families, another tick for doing good while galavanting across the world.
Day Four: The Lares Trek (gets tough)
The second day of the hike is the toughest as you head to the high pass of Sicllaccas. The climb from 3800 metres to around 4800 metres makes a notable difference in both your breathing and ability to move one leg in front of the other. Being on assignment, I had a day pack full of multiple camera gear, laptops, water and other bits: don’t make my mistake, pack light!
Big props to the crew on our tour, though; with an assistant guide on hand, it meant no man was left behind, and the group could break into two, catering to different capabilities. If you are having an ‘I’m considering all my life decisions and can’t move right now’ moment, then one-of-a-kind porters might even lend you his horse for a little while.
Hopefully, though, you’ll remind yourself of the benefits of hiking and forget about how tough it is because the views are out of this world.
Chicon mountain sat in the background with a fresh dump of snow at its peak, the blue lagoons were mesmerising, and the 360 views from the summit into the valley deserve a place on any postcard.
One of the most special things for me on the Lares Trek was the silence. Once you had caught your breath, you could hear a pin drop. Witnessing only a handful of tourists beyond our group, this hike still seems very much a hidden gem.
Locals would walk past herding their animals and slowing to share greetings; kids ran down the mountainsides to the small schools, and friendly Llamas would continue their business oblivious to your presence unless you asked them for a selfie. If you want the real deal, you can’t get much better than this.
Hiking downhill after reaching the top feels like a walk in the park, at least a very steep park.
Perhaps my favourite part of the hike was not because of the ease but due to the valley rising around you and the mind-blowing landscape stretching far beyond the tiny-looking town of Moray in the infinite distance.
Day Five: The Lares Trek and train
Heading back towards the road, the hike slowly emerges from black mountains and quaint streams to a rocky path under a tree canopy.
Stopping on the way at a local stone house, we all crowded in as a friendly family, which gave us an insight into their lives. With Guinea pigs (a local delicacy) living under the bed and a small fire in the corner, I was reminded just how naturally others live.
We saw the equipment they use to farm potatoes, talked about the long walk to school and found out a woman must be able to prepare a guinea pig for dinner before marriage. I was grateful that the Lares Trek had allowed me to get much closer to the Quechua reality than the Inca Trail allowed.
Waiting for you at the end is a bus to whisk you back to Ollantaytambo. A stop on the way for another three-course lunch served up by the talented team allows a chance to slip some tips to these legends who somehow hop along this hike regularly and keep the spirit high throughout.
Although there are cold showers on the hike, with the chilly nighttime temperature of the Andes, washing between warm bowls of water and baby wipe showers has likely left you not looking ready for a selfie in front of the famous lost city.
The Inca Trail hikes directly into Machu Picchu, whereas the Lares Trek allows a night in Aguas Calientes to sleep, shower, and see the Citadel feeling refreshed.
The train from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu is a show-stealer of its own. Meandering through The Sacred Valley, it passes more mountains, rivers and local villages in air-conditioned comfort. You can read more about the Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu train journey here.
Aguas Calientes is a made-to-order tourist town. Although uninspiring, it serves the purpose of eating and sleeping, which ticked all our boxes on the back of the Lares Trek.
Day Six: Machu Picchu IS worth the hype
Busy? Yes. Touristy? Yes. Worth it? F!^& Yes!
Some places you know will disappoint you. I thought Machu Picchu would be one of those.
Happily, it more than lived up to the hype.
With around one million visitors gracing the citadel in the sky a year, it felt surprisingly uncrowded once we were inside the compound. Getting to the top of the mountain was another story with the shuttle bus taking around two hours from joining the long line in the early hours to finally being deposited at the entrance to get a cliche but cool passport stamp.
You can hike up to the entry point in less than an hour, but as it was a wet, cloudy morning with no sun in sight for sunrise, we all agreed to take the easy option.
Having not been discovered or destroyed by the Spanish, Machu Picchu is the crown jewel of the Inca empire, thanks to how well-preserved it still is. Subsiding issues, though, are making restrictions to visitors inevitable, so if you want to see it for yourself, now is a good time to book that ticket.
One of those changes is now you only get a partial day allocation with your ticket. After a guided tour with our main man, Rudy, who filled my head with more facts than I could remember (though I did jot down a few of them here), we were left to our own devices. Some headed to the sun gate, others to the Inca bridge.
I did the sensible thing, however, and spent much of the next hour trying to get the classic Alpaca photo (ok, I’m lying; I was mainly taking Alpaca selfies).
A long train and bus combo will get you back to Cusco after dark, driving through twinkling lights and snowy mountains during golden hour.
Being the last night, we all headed for dinner to celebrate success and drank way too many Pisco Sours. Somehow, we ended up invited behind the bar. Told you the locals were a friendly bunch.
Day Seven: Chill, Cheers and Cusco
Although the tour wraps up this morning, if you have planned a later flight, you can chill, sip a few more Pisco sours, or explore around Cusco.
If you are lucky enough to have more time in the country, then now is the time to head off and explore some of the hidden gems of Peru.
The tour was epic, and I’m so glad I was able to join it. Being a solo traveller, shifting over to group tour life is sometimes a struggle, but other than the fact wandering off aimlessly into the Andes on your own is never a good idea, the local team at G Adventures went above and beyond to show us a sweet time. Rudy, thanks for being an absolute legend!
A seven-day The Lares Trek trip with G Adventures is priced from £749pp. This includes all accommodation (four nights in hotels and two nights camping), most main meals (allow US$170pp for meals not included), all transport once joining the tour, and a dedicated specialist Lares Trek chief experience officer throughout. Travellers will also experience three ‘G Adventures for Good’ projects on this tour. Prices do not include flights. For more information or to book, please visit www.gadventures.co.uk.
Plan your trip
Some quick tips to help you plan your Lares Trek.
Lares Trek responsible tourism tips
Water refills, although available boiled on the hike, are not something offered here as commonly as I have seen them in Asia. As such, bring a life straw or similar to minimise the need to burn through lots of plastic bottles.
Anything you take or consume on the Trek needs to come back with you; it’s a no-brainer.
I don’t advocate gifting money to kids as it will often deter them from getting an education in developing countries. That said, the Lares Trek is remote and hasn’t been touched by tourism. Consider bringing fruits (hard to access in the mountains) or school supplies for the tiny local schools; these can make a significant impact.
On this tour, G Adventures has done a lot of hard work thanks to the community projects that are already in place. These run alongside Planeterra(planeterra.org), which you can learn more about here. If you plan on getting any fabrics or gifts, consider buying them at the projects or in the mountains, as the passing trade is nearly non-existent here.
Packing for Machu Picchu
As either porters (Inca Trail) or horses (Lares Trek) carry belongings across the mountains, packing light is not just recommended but the rules. On my tour, we were provided with duffle bags and a weight limit of 6km, including sleeping bags and whatever else you will carry in your day pack. You can leave big bags and additional stuff at your hotel in Cusco.
Packing light and wisely is essential, this handy Machu Picchu packing guide gives a good overview of what to bring.
G Adventures has sleeping bikes and hike poles available to rent during the first-day briefing, which the porters will also transport for you. Leave camera tripods behind as ‘professional camera gear’ is not allowed in Machu Picchu, though I’m not sure exactly what kind of gear this includes. I had my Canon 5D, 3 Lenses, Osmo+ and GoPro in my bag, which wasn’t checked.
Lastly, check with the tour company if this information is up to date as the hikes and Machu Picchu impose their own rules, which may change from time to time.
Getting to Cusco
Cusco airport is small, and flight connection options might not always line up correctly. The main local airline LAN, part of the LATAM group, is a reliable bet. G Adventures can help you book your flights, although these aren’t a standard part of the tour package.
Hi Dan,
You have shared very interesting pics of Machu Picchu, I would like to visit this as it is in the list of seven wonders of the world. Thank you and best of luck!
Thanks Akshay!
That’s a good description and beautiful photography. Makes me want to travel to Machu picchu :)
Thank you :)
Hi Dan,
Thank you so much for this blog, such a breath of fresh air! I loved the honest insight into the trekking route around the Lares area and wanted to share a blog from Apus Peru who’s aim is to give something back to these incredible communities where we trek through…. The most humbling and authentic experience is to help these incredible people in a sustainable and reciprocal way. Once again… Thank you for sharing your incredible experience with us all! 🙌
I did this a couple years ago and it is still the best adventure of my life. Such an amazing place with unbelievable views :)
Glad you also had an epic time!
The Lares trek is an excellent alternative to the traditional Inca Trail since it has the same amount of days (4 days) and the same destination – Machu Picchu – through this trek you can meet Machu Picchu enjoying the scenic beauty, culture and the best living with local communities that have kept their customs and traditions in force. https://www.crossoverperu.org/
Did this earlier in September and I have to say, your description is on point! Such an amazing experience and g adventures were awesome too! We had Nick as our tour guide as Rudi was doing the Inca trail :) Happy travels!
Amazing, glad you had an awesome time – it’s well worth the climb isn’t it :)
Your photos really captured the culture well. The tradition is inevitable when you visit such a spiritual place.
Machu Picchu is very beautiful. There are many famous places that are suitable for people to discover and enjoy. It’s very wonderful when I can travel to this country.
It was an AMAZING hike, even if I’m a bit too unhealthy to do it haha :) Alpacas are always the priority I think!
YASSS!
Hi,
We are a group of four girls, since 4 day Inca is full for june. We want to join 2 day inca trail. This options is recommend by a friend (the first one) who take the tour last year:
But it takes only one day trekking and the other day visiting Machu Picchu.
Should I book in advance or can we find the permits for the 4 day trek directly in Peru?
Thanks for your response
Panda
Hi Panda,
The permits of the Inca Trail usually sell out far in advance, so if you do want to do the full 4-day trek you should certainly book as soon as possible. Many people who did the Lares Trek with me did so because they couldn’t get permits for the Inca Trail, even though they were booking 6+ months in advance.
Have a great trip!
So cool! I’ll have to add this to my bucket list for Peru! :)
Great site and images! We’re planning on doing this tour as well. Do you know if drones are allowed on the trail? (Of course not in Macchu Pichu).
Machu Picchu is an amazing place to visit soon. I am really amazed how they build that community. Thanks for this guide.💙
This photo is amazing! Well from the photograph it pretty clean that you are very good photographer. Thanks for sharing this lovely travel experience with us
I went to Peru in spring of 2012 and the crown jewel of any Peruvian getaway is Machu Picchu. We also were able to snap a few pics with limited people since we waited out a rain storm. But we were treated to the clouds climbing up Machu Picchu which was beautiful! 😊
This place is very beautiful and such a great piece of art. Machu picchu can amaze every traveler. This place is look like a puzzle game where one can enjoy hide and seek game like I did .:)
I am hiking up to Machu Picchu next month and I can’t wait. I am spending a few days in Cusco before. Any tips or ideas for other fun things to do around there?
Hey, have an awesome time over there! I didn’t spend too much time there but Ollantaytambo is really cute so if that’s not on your plans look at getting a train there from Cusco :)
Hi Sweety. I hope you are doing wonderfully. My name is Gina, I work for the boutique travel agency Peru for Less and have been living in Peru for more than 2 years. You have probably already completed your trip to Machu Picchu and Cusco (hope you had an incredible time) but wanted to offer some ideas for other readers as well.
Here are some fun things to do in Cusco, as well as day trips in the Sacred Valley that start and end in Cusco:
–Cusco Planetarium Tour: A great evening option. For astrology lovers, a visit to the Cusco Planetarium is an opportunity to learn about how the Inca civilization understood the universe. Approximately 3 hours.
–Chocolate Making Workshop: Right off the Plaza de Armas, a culinary expert explains the history of Peruvian chocolate and helps you make your own handmade chocolate treats, from bean to bar. Approximately 2 hours.
–Pachamanca Culinary Experience: In Quechua, Pachamanca means “earth cooking pot,”and is the epitome of traditional cooking in the Andes. This culinary tour in the Sacred Valley gives you a front row seat to the preparation and ingredients of this special dish. Approximately 7 hours.
–Sacred Valley Llama Trek: Great option for families. This half-day trek opens your eyes to the role that llamas play in daily life in the Andes and what the Llama Pack Project is doing to help local families thrive. Approximately 4 hours.
–Sacred Valley River Rafting: Enjoy a fun day of rafting on class II-III rapids on the Urubamba River in the Sacred Valley. Approximately 6 hours.
Hope this helps. This is such a great blog, Daniel! Keep up the awesome work :)
A great article for trekking to Machu Pichu. I have also recently written an article. Sharing for here for your valuable feedback on my article on Peru. http://www.shoestringtravel.in/2017/06/in-search-of-incas-machu-pichu-peru.html
Thanks for sharing, glad you loved Peru too!
Dan, I have been following your blog from last 2 Years and I must tell you, I love all the posts and pictures. It feels like I am also part of the journey. Keep Posting :)
Great video! It bought back memories of when I did the same trip last october. It was a brilliant trip and I’m so glad I did the Lares instead of the inca trail for the same reasons you mentioned. I’m just starting to make videos for my blog (my first was the Galapagos) and I’m cursing the fact I didn’t take any videos on the trek – just photos! I blame the altitude!!
Haha, I don’t blame you at one point I was battling altitude sickness and a nosebleed, the group must have thought I was made still filming. Amazing trek though, glad you had an awesome time too :)
I enjoyed reading your post!!Thanks so much!
After reading your article, i think Machu Picchu is definitely worth the hype. And also absolutely stunning pictures of the Lares trek. From breathtaking train rides to scenic treks, Peru is on my next backpacking destination.
Thank you. As it should be haha. Hope you have an amazing time when you visit :)
Cusco looks great. The pics of the Lares Trek and Macchu Pichu are amazing. Good Maggie and you had your priorities right taking alpaca selfies. ;) Also, absolutely love your site design.
Thanks so much Abby. It was an AMAZING hike, even if I’m a bit too unhealthy to do it haha :) Alpacas are always the priority I think!