When to Visit Graz? A Seasonal Guide to Styria, Austria

The great thing about Graz is that there’s really no bad time to go. Austria’s second city is UNESCO-listed both for its historic centre and as a City of Design, so even in the depths of winter, it’s a top-notch cultural city break. Still, the best time to visit Graz will depend on the attractions and atmosphere you seek.

Around a fifth of this university city’s population are students, meaning that the energy can shift significantly outside term time. In the colder months, the halls of the UNESCO-listed Eggenberg Palace hibernate, shuttering one of Graz’s star attractions. Hikes in spring are more about wildflowers, while autumn trails are more likely to end with a new harvest wine. Read on to plan your perfect seasonal visit to this underrated European city.

Graz in Spring: Festivals, Creativity, and Gorgeously Green Trails 

As soon as the sun is shining, Graz feels almost Mediterranean. Pop-up bars appear along the banks of the River Mur; spring flowers add even more colour to the gardens around the verdant Schlossberg, a city centre hilltop park, and restaurant terraces overflow with laughter as locals sip wines from the surrounding Styrian countryside. 

From late April through June, Graz feels full of spring. Eggenberg Palace reopens from its winter break, kayakers and raft rides take to the River Mur once more, and Graz’s farmers markets come alive as drinks are enjoyed at sundown and as weekly market music events start back up.  

What makes Graz one of the best European cities to visit in the spring is the numerous festivals and events, especially Design Month in May. Being a UNESCO City of Design, Graz’s celebration of all things creative is of the highest standard, and the eclectic programme takes over the city, from the forward-thinking Kunsthaus (locally known as the ‘friendly alien’) to guided urban art tours around Hornig Areal, a coffee factory turned street art project.

In late June, the internationally unsung Springfestival marks the end of the season with a bang. This citywide music festival is truly special. From pool parties and raves in the old castle’s casemates to watching The Streets perform in concert halls and alternative music events, and even underground gigs in expanded World War II tunnels. I’ve genuinely never attended a festival with such a varied set of venues. Just after, Graz celebrates Pride, and summer begins.

Graz in Summer: Concerts, Cycling, River Rafting, and Relaxing

Austria in summer is dreamy. Many might consider winter to be when this Alpine country is at its finest, but as a non-skier, I disagree. In southern Austria and Styria, the region surrounding Graz, blue skies and sunshine beat powder and pistes. Cultural festivals overflow outside, urban beaches open, and lakes like Schwarzlsee become a flawless spot for a refreshing dip. Summer is a great time to tackle some of the hikes near Graz, such as the Bärenschützklamm Laddered Gorge Hike, which closes in winter, or crossing over the hills to neighbouring Thal, hometown of Arnold Schwarzenegger and home to one of the quirkiest churches you’ll ever see.

In Graz itself, from late June to September, the atmosphere is slightly more subdued. With lots of students heading home for the summer, and many locals preferring to spend their weekends out in nature, a summer weekend break in Graz can feel surprisingly calm. If sightseeing is on the agenda, such as at the celestial-themed Schloss Eggenberg or the world’s largest medieval armoury in the city centre, this is a real win. There are plenty of reasons to visit Graz’s different districts, too, from alpaca encounters to meals of cold cuts and local wine in traditional countryside buschenschank within the city limits.

Graz’s cultural calendar continues throughout the summer. Most famous is Styriarte, the city’s classical music event. Still, it’s far from your typical set of operas and recitals, with cycling concerts making the most of al fresco entertainment, and moving, multi-room performances in the gorgeous Palais Attems.

If you’re visiting Graz in summer, plan to spend at least a few days in the city and a few beyond. The River Mur is a must, whether you’re river rafting with a spritz in hand (departures are from Graz’s City Beach) or cycling the Mur River Path south towards the Südsteiermark Wine Region to sample some regional vines in situ. Seasonal trains, like the rattling Gleichenberger Bahn, will take you deeper into the countryside, and the Graz Food Festival in mid-August showcases why this city is known as Austria’s culinary capital. Speed fan? Plan a visit around June’s Formula One race in Spielberg.

Graz in Autumn: Harvest, Golden Hikes, and New Wines 

Green Graz turns golden in the fall. From September until November, attention turns to the harvest, pretty colours, and new wines. You don’t even need to leave the city for a winery experience, as Falter Ego, helmed by Graz’s wine maker Hannes Sabathi, is within the urban limits.

Book a tour and tasting to sample the wines harvested on Graz’s slopes, or slip into any of the city’s wine bars – like Klapotetz, on my favourite tucked-away courtyard – to sip Sturm, a fizzy, still fermenting wine only served around the autumn harvest. For onephiles, it’s a cracking time for a cross-border Austrian city-break paired with Slovenia, as Maribor, said to be home to Europe’s oldest grapevine, is just across the border.

Make the most of the autumn sunshine by tackling the Bärenschützklamm laddered hike before it closes for the season, or tour Eggenberg Palace before its state halls shut in November for the winter. To see the copper canopy with a little more character, visit the Stübing Open Air Museum, where over 100 heritage buildings from around Austria have been relocated in a gorgeous valley just outside the city. In late October, the Truffle Festival offers foraging hikes and flavourful plates.

With the university back in full swing, Graz feels alive again after the brief summer lull. Dip into the museums of the Joanneumsviertel if there’s a short shower, soak up the atmosphere at the farmers’ markets with a glass of Sturm, or book a ticket to see a start-of-season performance at Graz’s gorgeous Opera House.

Graz in Winter: Festive Wonderlands, Warming Spas, and Snowy Scenes

Between December and March, Styria is far more about cozy, quality meals and enjoying a city-break weekend in Graz, than hiking and getting out into nature. Still, there are some ski resorts in the region, though I’d vote for a pampering day trip to warm up at one of Europe’s most unique thermal spring spas, Rogner Bad Blumau, instead.

Graz at Christmas is magical. From late November, the city turns into a true winter wonderland. There are more than a dozen markets spread across the districts, and given their proximity, it feels like you’re almost moving between one large continuous market. That said, many have their own focuses, such as homemade gifts, zero-waste products, or artisanal crafts, keeping them distinct.

One of the most distinctive markets is located in the Schlossberg casemates, while the Landhause Courtyard features a large ice-carved nativity scene. A short train ride away, the adorable medieval town of Frohnleiten is home to the family-friendly Lumagica event. The year ends on a high with a water, light and music show in front of Graz’s town hall.

January and February are a little less stimulating, with short, grey, and chilly days, so sightseeing and hearty local specialities, such as backhendl (Styrian fried chicken), are on the agenda. Ball season keeps January colourful, and while Graz’s balls aren’t as famous as those in Vienna, there are some fab themed events to join. Whenever you plan to visit Graz, be sure to check out the local events calendar to see what’s on the schedule.

This article was partly researched during a blogging residency in Graz hosted by Graz Travel Deeper. As always, all opinions and words are my own.