Postcards from
The Faroe Islands
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Explore Europe’s far-flung ethereal islands by ferry, boat, and bus
On this remote archipelago, almost halfway between Iceland and Norway, life has evolved and revolved around the Atlantic Ocean since the first Norse settlers arrived in the 9th century. But it’s far from underdeveloped: futuristic buildings contrast with their traditional turf roofs, award-winning chefs play with the ocean’s bounty, and underwater tunnels and ferries keep communities connected.Eighteen Islands in the North East Atlantic
Shaped by nature
Fierce winds and roaring waters shaped these once-volcanic islands, all but a mere speck on Europe’s maps. But even in a seemingly unhospitable place, where surviving might seem almost impossible, communities and culture have flourished: hospitable people, a sizeable population of sheep, and seasonal puffins call these wild isles home.
Bøur
The Faroe Islands (Føroyar) are dotted with small settlements and villages. One of the prettiest is Bøur (population 75), which enjoys views of Tindhólmur, a dramatic islet rising from the cerulean waters.
Sheep and Horses
It’s estimated that 70,000 sheep live on the islands. However, the number of Faroese Horses is far fewer. Only around 90 of the species remain, with a passionate group dedicated to trying to conserve the population through breeding and investigating passport options to introduce the Faroese Horse abroad.
The grindadrap
Also known as the grind, the grindadrap is a traditional pilot whale hunting activity that dates back centuries and is still practiced today. While it was once a source of substance — food sources were pretty scarce out here — the arguments for ending the hunts, both from activists and many residents, have become louder, especially as the high levels of mercury found in the meat make it dangerous for human consumption.
Viðareiði
The most northerly settlement of the Faroes is Viðareiði, on the island of Viðoy. With its end-of-the-world atmosphere, the village’s church is both a place of prayer and solitude.
Fjords and falls
While a few of the archipelago’s islands stray to the south, most sit alongside each other. Fjords — some deep, others more shallow — also cut into the larger islands, creating spectacular settings and road-trip views. On rainy days, countless cascades tumble down the mountainsides.
Trøllkonufingur
Translated as ‘troll’s finger’ or ‘witch’s finger’, the soaring Trøllkonufingur monolith is one of many impressive rock features that can be admired from lookout points or onboard a boat tour.
Trails to the edge
Sometimes mistaken for a lake floating above the ocean, Sørvágsvatn is one of the most famous sights in the Faroe Islands. It is, in fact, an optical illusion, best witnessed from atop the Trælanípa rock wall.
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Local Flavours
Traditional dishes in the Faroe Islands rely on what is available: mainly lamb and seafood. Three of the island’s best restaurants for getting a taste of local produce were established by the same team. Michelin-awarded KOKS, little-sister ROKS (pictured is a sea urchin dish fresh from the harbor outside), and Ræst, which specialises in fermented dishes, using the traditional method of Faroese food preservation.
Kirkjubøur
Kirkjubøur, on the island of Streymoy, is perhaps the most historically significant settlement on the archipelago. It’s home to one of the oldest wooden houses in the world (which you can visit in parts) and has religious ruins that are nearly 1000 years old.
Buses and boats
Getting around the Faroe Islands, even without a car, is straightforward. The city buses in and around Tórshavn are free, and you can get an affordable travel card to use the extensive network that connects with nearly every village. Underwater tunnels, bridges and ferries of various sizes can help you reach the other islands, while a limited helicopter service is mainly used by locals.
Tórshavn
The colorful and quaint capital city of Tórshavn is home to the majority of the country’s residents. Alongside the historical sights, such as the turf-roofed parliament buildings at Tinganes, there are also forward-thinking architectural wonders, including hotels, concert halls, cultural spaces, craft beer breweries and even a Faroese record label.
The Elements
Weather on the Faroe Islands is everything and always. Yes, winter brings snow while summer sees more sun, but strong winds, rains, hail, rainbows, and warm rays can all occur on the same day — and sometimes, all in just one hour. Even across the archipelago, the climates can vary greatly depending on which island you are on.
