Edinburgh in August: Five festivals, countless awesome experiences

Five festivals might seem like a lot crammed into one month, but Edinburgh actually has 12 festivals throughout the year, from the famous New Year celebration of Hogmanay to Storytelling.

This August I was lucky enough to attend all of the Edinburgh festivals which happen in August, a fantastic month as the city comes alive with five different festivals.

During August, the population doubles as over 500,000 people visit to marvel at this historic Castle city. By day, the crowds come to soak up the street performers on the Royal Mile and cram in as many shows as possible. By late night, it’s about sinking some bevvies in a purple, upside-down cow or one of the many pop-up bars throughout the city.

To give you an idea of just how big the festival events are in Edinburgh, the only other two events that sell more tickets are the World Cup and the Olympics… crazy stuff, right?!? The streets are pumping, the city is buzzing, and the sun is shining (ok, this is still Scotland, so no guarantees), making it the perfect time to soak up the history that this city is famous for and the world’s biggest festivals. And if you’re not visiting in August, don’t fear; there are plenty more events to enjoy, such as the end-of-year Hogmanay in Edinburgh NYE parties.

I had the privilege of being the blogger in residence at Festivals Edinburgh, which meant I got to capture, explore, and discover the city through all of the five festivals.

With so much going on, including over 3000 performances in 300 different venues, it is very easy to mismanage your time during the Edinburgh festivals. But, with a little planning, you can be sure to see the best bits of each.

Here’s the lowdown on the five different festivals in August.

Edinburgh Festival Fringe

Perhaps the most famous of them all, the Fringe Festival literally takes over the city. The street performers and a mountain of flyers on the Royal Mile lure you in. Whether you opt for the big-ticket venues or the smallest back room pub a good time is for sure. The Fringe is the world’s largest arts festival, and last year, over 3000 shows took part, with an unbelievable 50,000 + performances put on.

Along with the four main stages, which host curated fringe shows, there are tons of smaller venues, shows, and artists around. The beauty of the Fringe is that if you have an idea and can find a venue, then you have a show. This makes it super accessible for performers to get their work into the spotlight without forking out heaps of cash.

It also means for us we can take in free shows without the worry of buying tickets in advance. Remember, if you enjoyed it, leaving some cash at the end to pay these talented folks is the way to go.

With thousands of performers and shows from around the world, this mix of comedy, dance, acrobats, and many other performing arts wow international crowds from circus tents to underground hubs.

The Royal Mile is a central hub for the action, with street performers, flyers, and the chance to sample some of the performances and buy tickets from the official Fringe Shop.

The Fringe isn’t just restricted to shows, though. Many events and activities, such as the Silent Disco tours, provide ample ways to keep yourself entertained, while buzzing beer gardens pop up throughout the city to help you enjoy the atmosphere.

My top tip: Don’t miss the Circus Hub in the meadows, where circus skills are being reimagined in this uber-colourful hangout, or the Fringe Friday Takeovers in the national museum!

The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo

The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo has been wowing crowds against the backdrop of Edinburgh Castle for years, and the custom-built seating around the castle’s esplanade is impressive.

I’ve gotta admit, I have seen clips of it on TV, but with a two-hour running time, I had thought it might be overkill. How wrong could I have been?

The Royal Tattoo is now so popular that it is toured, complete with Castle Set, around the globe. Over 200, 000 people attend it live every year but the reach through Television is insane. If 100 million people tune in globally each year to watch it then it has got to be pretty damn impressive right!?!

From the projection-lit castle backdrop at the start to the closing fireworks, those two hours flew by. I watched different army bands from around the world perform pieces, from the US army belting out some Aretha to Jordan’s much more intimate performance, which expressed their local culture.

If there is one thing you splurge on when you visit Edinburgh Festivals, make this it!

Even more impressive is that come wind or rain, the show has never once been cancelled! While the weather is unpredictable in Scotland, the show has always gone on, and even if the rain comes, the fantastic atmosphere and the castle set more than makeup for it. To witness one of the city’s most famous landmarks come to life in such a unique way is incredible.

Each year, the cast of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo seems to grow. With over 1000 performers from Scotland, the UK and around the world, this is a truly international show.

In 2018, bands from Mexico, the USA, Switzerland, and Oman were part of the cast, and each one brought a unique aspect to their performance while showcasing their local cultures. It’s absolutely incredible to witness so much global talent in one evening.

People will tell you that the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo is a big ticket item, and in relation to many of the other shows in August, it is, but with tickets starting from around £25 for the 110-minute performance, I personally think they are pretty good value in comparison to many huge shows and concerts in Europe.

Edinburgh International Book Festival

When you think of a book festival, you likely wander to a large bookshop where people drink cups of tea and exchange tips on the next top read.

Reality check: the Edinburgh International Book Festival is anything but that.

I mean, they have bookshops, three in fact, and they serve up a mean cuppa, but there is so much more going on in Charlotte Square Gardens, the beautiful and usually closed square where the Book Festival takes place, that it really deserves to be a part of your August Edinburgh visit.

You’ll hear lots of authors you may not have heard of before reading segments of their books and hearing them share their passion behind creating them. Over the past week, I’ve come away with plenty of new books from authors new to me, and that was all down to hearing them read and speak about their novels.

This year’s Unbound programme, which happens nightly at the Spiegeltent, combines words with music, poetry, performance and discussion, and these events are a real crossover of mediums. Whether it’s an evening discussing gender or politics or simply a night of music, each slot on the programme brings something fresh to the table.

With book signings, talks by famous authors and a huge on site shop it is no surprise that in the few weeks the event runs it sells more books than most of the permanent stores in the city. Located in the beautiful Charlotte Square Gardens it’s an awesome spot to chill on the grass, grab a coffee and get stuck into a few chapters of a new novel.

Edinburgh Art Festival

Edinburgh is already an art-filled city, with not just museums and galleries but also 150+ permanent statues and monuments dotted around. That, coupled with the Castle, cobbled streets, and historic architecture, makes it one of the best places to visit in the UK for art lovers.

Now, the art festival goes well beyond the city walls. Jupiter Art World, with its green hills set against the impressive private residence of Bonnington House, was one of my favourite places to visit. Surrounded by the greens and yellows of the Scottish countryside, its sculpture garden was well worth the out-of-town trip.

In the city itself, you will stumble upon installations all over, from subways to Carlton Hill, with art as varied as neon lights through to classical works. Trust me, you don’t need an art degree to appreciate how impressive the collection is.

Countless different forms make up the definition of art, and the lines can sometimes seem blurred across the five festivals in Edinburgh during August, but as the diverse programme on offer at the Art Festival, the venues are equally as intriguing.

Edinburgh is full of hidden gems and slightly off-the-beaten-path places to explore, and the Edinburgh Art Festival is a great way to tour the city while enjoying a wide range of great cultural expressions.

From classical music in converted churches to pop-up events in wildlife gardens, the art festival programme is packed with local and international talent and will make you reconsider what art can be. When I sat down to chat with Sorcha, the art festival director, she summed it up.

“Festivals provide a safe space for people to explore and experience new things, and people navigate a festival with an element of surprise. This gives us a great opportunity to help people visit galleries and explore our programmes which may not normally do so.”

Edinburgh International Festival

While for many people who visit Edinburgh during August, a show is a show, anyone who knows the history of the festivals can tell you the Edinburgh International Festival was the original festival, with the Fringe growing alongside it to accommodate acts who also wanted to perform in Edinburgh.

Still, the International festival can sometimes get confused and blended in with the Fringe. This curated collection of performances is usually put on in bigger venues and often with big-name performers. I was lucky to snag a ticket to Alan Cumming live at The Hub and his after-show party, and it was a brilliant night in an intimate but ornate venue.

Whilst Alan might be a Scotsman, the International Festival gives talent around the world a stage in Edinburgh. This year, there were performers from over 43 countries offering a huge, varied program of events that gave insights into performing arts and theatre from different cultures alongside the home-grown talent. I couldn’t help but notice a theme of politics, travel and acceptance through many of the shows, which, on the back of Brexit and the emotions it has stirred up, seemed rather apt.

With the festival’s programme carefully curated, there is a wealth of talent from around the world, and in some of Edinburgh’s largest venues, the sheer spectacle that some of these shows offer makes them really shine.

Edinburgh is a city with some incredible venues, ranging from smaller theatres to large concert halls and each one offers astonishing architecture inside. Even the Festival’s closing event, a fireworks display to a live orchestra, takes place in front of Edinburgh Castle, the programme is a real treat!

The Edinburgh International Festival programme is truly outstanding in its diversity and as well as the more contemporary shows I’ve had a chance to see, traditional pieces such as The Prisoner at The Lyceum and La Cenerentola by Opera de Lyon were equally outstanding.

And that, for me, is what defines the Edinburgh International Festival, they seem always to be finding new ways to share theatre with their audiences and taking risks some other companies wouldn’t dream of and that, at its very core, is what keeps creativity alive.

WHERE TO STAY?

Accommodation can jump hugely in price during the August Festival season so advance booking is a great idea. Here are two options I tested out that don’t need to cost a bomb.

SYHA Edinburgh Metro Hostel: Don’t panic! This isn’t your typical dorm hostel. During the summer months, this University city hands many of its campus flats over to the SYHA to manage, which means you can score your own room (share bathroom) within a flat right in the heart of the city for around £50 a night, which given how expensive hotels can jump is a great option. For me, it was better than a hostel as you still get a private room with plenty of space, your own wardrobe and desk, and access to the flat kitchen, so you don’t have to eat out every day.

Motel One: There are two of these chic, German-based hotels in the city that offer really chic rooms at a lower price than most boutique hotels. Don’t let the Motel name fool you, with plush bedding, designer features, amazing showers and a great breakfast buffet this is much more of a 4* hotel experience than a motel. Rooms start from £59 a night during the off-season but can rise higher, especially if booked last minute leading up to the festival.

HOW TO GET THERE?

By Train: If you are starting your journey already in the UK then train might be the best way to get up here. Our trains can be both expensive and packed but if you book in advance you can usually score a good price and get a seat reservation (try and go for one with a table for a charger as it could be a long ride). I love using The Train Line as a starting point for finding great fares.

By Air Edinburgh has a great airport located not far from the city and there is also an airport in Glasgow. Both serve International routes as far as Asia with both budget and legacy carries. Check out Skyscanner as allows to hunt down the cheapest flight deals – I have a super handy post on the best ways to get cheap flights as a good starting point.