When it comes to festive city breaks in Europe, there are a few cities that seem to hog the spotlight. But if you really want to experience the Christmas magic, Dresden and the region of Saxony is the perfect sized present you might now know you need.
Boasting eleven Christmas markets in Dresden alone, alongside a whole host of other traditions that complete Christmas, my week-long festive filming session in Saxony transported me to a true winter wonderland.
There was in fact so much festive cheer to see and do, I’ve split this article into two parts. While here I’ll focus more on the city-break side of exploring around Dresden, my second post on Christmas in Seiffen and the Ore Mountains will take you to total Christmas overload.
But first, before taking you through how to make the most of your Christmas trip to Saxony, take a little tour of what is on offer in this short video.
One of the best testaments as to why Christmas is at the heart of Saxony is the year-round production that occurs here: from festive stars to the delicious Dresdner Stollen.
The region of Upper Lusatia which is easy to reach from Dresden is home to many of these traditions, and so I’ve combined them in with this Christmas in Dresden guide. While public transport will take you to most of these places, I highly recommend a car to explore, just remember to park it for the night before sinking too many mulled wines!
Baking Dresdner Christstollen at Wipplers
Just next door to the Pillnitz Palace you’ll find the bakers at Wipplers hard at work baking the Dresdner Christstollen, especially at this time of year!
This world-famous festive treat is part of the regions culinary heritage, and for centuries a select group of pastry chefs and bakers have produced this raisin, butter and almond treat.
Only around 120 bakers are officially allowed to produce the traditional Dresdner Stollen, and here, with a museum and the chance of a tour if booked in advance, is your chance to witness the production first hand. The Wippler bakers have been hard at work for generations, and Andrew who leads the team here alongside his father took me behind the scenes into this perfectly organised operation.
It was incredible to see how fast hands moved here, and producing the levels they do at such high quality is no easy task. A single batch of Stollen has around 180-kilos, and the process takes a few days. From preparing the dough, weighing it out, baking it, buttering it, resting and then the final sprinkle of sugar, in the peak season leading up to Christmas over 1000 Stollen are produced in this small bakery per day.
The best part of course? Sampling the freshest Stollen right from the heart of its home.
Gingerbread in Pulsnitz
Along the drive back to Dresden, a visit to Pulsnitz in the Upper Lusatia part of Saxony will take you to the Gingerbread Capital of the country.
For generations, since 1558, the ginger-infused treat has been baked here, so much, so a museum dedicated to the production of gingerbread has sprung up in the town. Here I saw the traditional methods and recipes, as well as learning the long history behind how the produce was first made, up until more modern methods came in. If you catch the team on a baking day, expect to have some light gingerbread handed to you straight from the oven.
Just moments away I also popped into the tiny store of Löschner, a gingerbread specialist that had a queue of customers lining up outside to get their Christmas treats.
Popping upstairs to visit the equally small production area, I was impressed by the small team working to original recipes in such a small space to create such a legendary brand of sweet slices. While it wouldn’t be possible for visitors to see the production usually, be sure to pick up a bag or two of treats, or the adorable hearts and shoes made of gingerbread, that this specialist is particularly famed for.
The Christmas market itself is adorable, and the hall alongside the market, with its numerous windows all sporting numbers, is transformed into a life-size advent calendar for the weeks leading up to Christmas.
As with all the Saxony Christmas markets I visited, expected plenty of mulled wine, local foods, and the chance to buy any gifts or products from the local manufactories. This is one well worth putting on your Christmas visit to Dresden list!
Bautzen and Sorbian culture
Bautzen is a romantic city, and it offers up some fascinating history for those who want a little culture on their Christmas trip to Dresden.
Here you’ll find the festive staples at the market on the main square, but the still mirror-like river, imposing castle turrets and walls, and the intriguing church are other reasons to visit.
The first thing you notice about the church from the outside is the peculiar shape it holds having been built at an angle. Inside though is where you’ll find something very different.
The Cathedral of St Peter is one of the oldest churches in Germany and is home to two faiths, which makes the interior so fascinating as in one hall you can physically see very little divide between the two places of worship inside. The mix of both a Gothic and Baroque interior also add to making this one of the most unique churches in Europe.
One of the official minority languages of German is Sorbian, and here in Bautzen is the first time I got to hear it being spoken. Lusatia and Bautzen is the homeland of the West Slavic ethnic group who also reside in Poland and the Czech Republic.
Here in Bautzen I really enjoyed the chance to visit a traditional restaurant and dine on the official wedding dinner of the Sorbs, with a focus on meat and potatoes, as well as learn a little more about their culture and history from the local museum. I especially enjoyed seeing the storytelling of local Sorbian legends played out across the coloured glass windows.
Admittedly, I had no idea about the Sorbs history and culture before arriving in Bautzen, but I highly recommend anyone who travels to Saxony to do so, and while German has become a lot more common, you will still find street signs and people talking in Sorbian around the region.
The other Christmas Markets of Dresden
If you love Christmas, and especially Christmas Markets, then Dresden is the city for you!
Nearly every street or square comes alive at some point during December with eleven Christmas Markets throughout the city. Each one has a slightly different theme and focus, and given the relatively compact nature of Dresden, they are ideal for exploring by foot – just remember to wrap up warm!
One of the more unique markets is the Medieval Christmas Market which sits in the courtyard of the impressive Dresden Royal Palace.
Here you’ll find a different array of foods, such as barbequed slow-cooked meats, while the handicrafts and goods for sale have a more ancient vibe. If you are feeling brave, you can even take part in the tradition of joining the winter hot-tub!
Hi Daniel,
I love your blog posts! The photos are magnificent as well!
I don’t see anywhere that you’ve travelled to Africa? It’s a beautiful continent to explore and make great memories. There is so much to explore! From wildlife to different cultures as well as awesome food!
I went on a safari trip through Africa three years ago and it is one of my most cherished memories. We went on a gorilla trek and also explored beautiful national parks full of other wildlife! I’m going again in December!
I don’t know if you’re one for safaris but if you’re interested and don’t mind other travellers, Africa Travel is a great company. I have used them for my safari tour and it was splendid! I highly recommend them!
Here’s the link to the tour I took, if you’re interested –> https://africatravelco.com/trip-and-safaris/gorillas-southern-discoverer/
Also, I wanted to subscribe to your newsletter but the form on your home page isn’t displaying correctly? It just says “[convertkit form=4928638]”.
Hey Celine,
Thank you. No, but’s my next big adventure, hopefully, 2020 I’ll make it happen. Thanks for the tips!
I’m having an issue with my email subscription, hope to get it working again soon :)
Dresden is a wonderful city, and it’s really amazing that the city has changed so much since 1990. I was on the border when it was finally available for people to cross over and visit. You could still see remnants of WWII then. Today it is a beautiful city again and you captured this very well in your photo’s show this well. Thank you for the great article and for making me want to return.
Thank you. I also really loved Dresden, and yes it’s incredible the difference and the restoration work that has gone on.
very well written article I enjoy reading this.
Thanks!